National Parks

[editionshield]

Originally Posted by mdhorn

we're going this summer. We're hoping to spend a day or two at Big Sur, maybe 3 or 4 at Yosemite and some time in Point Reyes and maybe a visit to the Muir Woods. Any recommended route through Yosemite?

Have you been before? I've been 3 times and basically been to 3 different areas. A few thoughts on each:

-- First couple times, I came into the park from the west or northwest. All roads more or less lead to the valley, but there are ways in from the northwest (Hwy 120), the west (Hwy 140) and the south (Hwy 41). (Also an entry point from the east side, but presuming you won't be using that.)

-- On my first visit, I drove into the valley initially -- the first sighting of the classic valley view is one of those unforgettable life experiences -- and then I went back out and up the north side to a road that leads toward Tuolomne Meadows (where I camped overnight). That area was nice enough but not "spectacular" like the valley itself. I'd recommend spending as much time in the valley proper as you can, even though it's obviously more crowded. (There's still areas where you can get away from things a bit.)

-- My second visit was really more like a drive-through but I did find a very good campground in the valley itself for the one night I was there. They do tend to fill up months in advance but sometimes there are late vacancies, so it's worth checking back if you find places booked early on.

-- Last year was #3 and the first time coming in from the south side. The big revelation here is that on the way up to the valley, there's a smaller road a few miles before you get to the valley entrance that climbs the ridge above the valley and ends at Glacier Point, which is where I took the picture posted earlier in the thread. I'd seen this view on postcards before but hadn't known that's where the view was from. You're essentially up above it all looking down upon the entire expanse of the valley below you.

I'd highly recommend taking this Glacier Point road at some point during your stay. Because it's a small winding road, it'll probably mean devoting at least a half-day for that excursion. If you're not coming in from the south entrance, it takes longer to reach because you basically have to go partly into the valley and then back out again to get on the road that heads back southward. And then the road itself is two-lane and pretty slow-going (takes about an hour to get to Glacier Point once you turn onto that road). But it's totally worth it, and you'll probably want to spend at least an hour or two up there once you're there, just to take in the view.

Here's a map that basically shows the 3 roads I'm talking about -- Tuolomne Meadows road up top (the long one), Yosemite Valley road in the middle, and then the Glacier Point spur below. (Note that the Glacier Point road is closed Nov-May, as is the Tuolomne Meadows road actually, but shouldn't be a problem since you said you're going in summer.)

[JG]

Its some hitting the parks on an extension of a business trip and some going on my own. I really love to hike, and I am always looking for new ones. I also like hitting the highest point of anything, from states (39) to counties (200+) to national parks.

I have a real love-hate relationship with Yosemite. The place is absolutely stunning, and you will remember your first view of the valley for your entire life. That said, it is stultifyingly crowded. I hate dealing with masses of humanity in places like that, especially people who toss trash in the road, or gather at a viewpoint and shove everybody else out of the way to take pictures.

If you can hike a bit, try this: climb up the trail to Upper Yosemite Falls, but as you curve around above the lower Falls, look for a little use trail off to the edge of the hill. You will wind up on the edge of a cliff (don't worry, the Park Service installed steel handrails), directly above the top (the brink) of the lower falls. You are basically suspended between the two. It's amazing.

Another awesome view that takes a bit more work is from Sentinel Dome, which you can reach from the Glacier Point road ed. talked about. You climb something like 1500-2000 vertical feet, but it's not hard, just steady walking uphill. You come out looking down on the entire valley, and it's stunning.

Be sure to go to the groves of Sequioas too.

The next high point I want to do is Mt Whitney...hp of the US, California, and Sequioa National Park. No climbing (if it requires using ropes or your hands, it ain't me), but one hell of a slog. 22 miles round trip, starting at 8000 feet and ending at 14,495. And you have to do it in one day - no camping. Gotta lose some more weight and get in REALLY good shape for this one.

[CalHorn]

Originally Posted by JG

The next high point I want to do is Mt Whitney...hp of the US, California, and Sequioa National Park. No climbing (if it requires using ropes or your hands, it ain't me), but one hell of a slog. 22 miles round trip, starting at 8000 feet and ending at 14,495. And you have to do it in one day - no camping. Gotta lose some more weight and get in REALLY good shape for this one.

I'm almost positive you can still camp in the Mt. Whitney zone. I know that was certainly the case a couple years ago, and I don't think they've changed it since then. You've gotta get the permit (lottery system), pack your waste out and you can't camp in certain areas within the "Whitney Zone," but I'm pretty sure that otherwise you can overnight camp in the zone. I seriously doubt the rangers would want to be encouraging people to try to make a day hike out of a 20+ mile round trip with a 6,000+ foot elevation gain/loss. They'd be hauling bodies out of there on a daily basis.

[JG]

Yes you can camp...but it's a pain to get the lottery, and unless you don't mind going on a Tuesday in September, spots are tough to get. And I don't like camping anyway.

I'm used to rangers giving me the evil eye, but I ignore them. I know what I'm capable of, and I also know when to turn back.

I definitely won't try this unless I'm reasonably sure I'll make it. Plus I might spend a couple of days at 10,000 feet in Colorado just before I try it, to acclimate to altitude.

[CalHorn]

Originally Posted by JG

Yes you can camp...but it's a pain to get the lottery, and unless you don't mind going on a Tuesday in September, spots are tough to get. And I don't like camping anyway.

I'm used to rangers giving me the evil eye, but I ignore them. I know what I'm capable of, and I also know when to turn back.

I definitely won't try this unless I'm reasonably sure I'll make it. Plus I might spend a couple of days at 10,000 feet in Colorado just before I try it, to acclimate to altitude.

You can certainly get day passes for the Whitney Zone. (I would suspect they are easier to come by than overnight passes, but I don't know for sure.) I just wouldn't want to try and summit and get out of there in a 24-hour period, though. But maybe you're the kind of badass who can do that sort of thing. If so, my hat's off to you.

Years ago when I was in my youth, i.e., late 20's, and in pretty good shape, I hiked from the South Rim of the Grand Canyon down to the Phantom Ranch at the bottom and then back to the rim, something that many others have done. I think it was something like 4600 feet down to the ranch and then back up. I definitely hit the wall the last mile or so while hiking back up to the rim. I can only imagine how much I would suffer trying to summit Whitney and get back down in a day.

[JG]

I did the Grand Canyon hike in a day also, about 10 years ago. I went down the South Kaibab Trail, and back up the Bright Angel Trail. It's actually over 5000 feet of vertical, I believe, or at least what I hiked was.

What whipped me on that was something I didn't count on. The connecting trail between the ends of the two trails runs along the river bank - in loose sand. 2+ miles of slogging through loose sand in 90 degree weather wore me out...and then I was looking up at the trail up.

One cool thing - while I was resting on a sand bar by the river, a party of rafter pulled up for lunch. I ate lunch with them, and they kept looking up at the rim and back at me, and muttering.

I hit the wall at the last mile also. I'd walk about 100 feet, stop and rest, walk another 100 feet, and some more. Finally made it, and then I started looking for Dr. Kevorkian to put me out of my misery. Quads were twitching.

I'm not a "badass", but I can put some miles down. The positives: I'm in the best shape of my life, and I weigh at least 50 pounds less than I did when I did the Canyon. Negatives: it's about 5 miles longer than the Canyon, more than a thousand more vertical, and it's at elevation.

If I do try it, I'm sure I'll train like a bitch, like somebody planning a marathon. I'll also look for a freaking early start, say 4 AM. Then I'll probably plan in a rest of 2-3 hours in there somewhere, and probably nap a bit. Then if I get done in the dark so be it.

[CalHorn]

Originally Posted by JG

I did the Grand Canyon hike in a day also, about 10 years ago. I went down the South Kaibab Trail, and back up the Bright Angel Trail. It's actually over 5000 feet of vertical, I believe, or at least what I hiked was.

What whipped me on that was something I didn't count on. The connecting trail between the ends of the two trails runs along the river bank - in loose sand. 2+ miles of slogging through loose sand in 90 degree weather wore me out...and then I was looking up at the trail up.

One cool thing - while I was resting on a sand bar by the river, a party of rafter pulled up for lunch. I ate lunch with them, and they kept looking up at the rim and back at me, and muttering.

I hit the wall at the last mile also. I'd walk about 100 feet, stop and rest, walk another 100 feet, and some more. Finally made it, and then I started looking for Dr. Kevorkian to put me out of my misery. Quads were twitching.

I'm not a "badass", but I can put some miles down. The positives: I'm in the best shape of my life, and I weigh at least 50 pounds less than I did when I did the Canyon. Negatives: it's about 5 miles longer than the Canyon, more than a thousand more vertical, and it's at elevation.

If I do try it, I'm sure I'll train like a bitch, like somebody planning a marathon. I'll also look for a freaking early start, say 4 AM. Then I'll probably plan in a rest of 2-3 hours in there somewhere, and probably nap a bit. Then if I get done in the dark so be it.

That's the same route I took -- figured it would be better to do the waterless, treeless Kaibab in the morning before things got too hot. Think it was the right call. Would have been a pain heading up the Kaibab in the hot afternoon sun. At least on the Bright Angel heading back up there was a kind of oasis area about halfway up or so.

I vaguely remember the trail on the bottom between the ranch and the start of the Bright Angel trail. I just didn't remember it being that long. Bottom line was that I was definitely moving slow the last mile or so before getting back up to the rim.

[mdhorn]

thanks Edition and JG. This will be our first time. I think I'll enter through the South and exit towards SF--pretty much the roads you illustrated as well as both of JG's suggested hikes. We're both pretty fit so that shouldn't be a problem.

The trip sounds awesome. The hikes do sound like a great way to get out and experience the park as well as the drive to Glacier Point. Thanks a bunch. We're early risers so crowds shouldn't be a problem. We'll get more done before noon I reckon than most will all day.

[Denali100]

I have lived in SD the last 20 years, but have not been into Yosemite since the 70s. The closest I came was white water rafting on the Tuoloumne a few years back. I have always thought it would be too crowded, but Edition has inspired me. Yosemite is now on my to do within 3 years list.

Is the road coming in from the South open year round?

I will definitely take the drive to Glacier Point and the hike up to Sentinel Dome. Thanks for the information.

[CalHorn]

Originally Posted by Denali100

Is the road coming in from the South open year round?

I assume you're referring to Hwy 41 a/k/a the Wawona Road that comes into the park from the Fresno area. If so, yes, it is open year round. However, chains are typically required when there is snow or ice during the winter and spring months, and the CHP sometimes will temporarily close the road during storms, etc., but in general that road is open all year. My girlfriend and her daughter made a trip up to the Badger Pass ski area last spring and they got in via 41 okay with chains. However, they did have to spend a night in a motel outside the park when the CHP shut down 41 for the night due to snow.

My understanding is that the road going down into Yosemite Valley is open year round. However, the Tioga Pass road that runs east/west across the park is usually closed between November and May. Same with the road to Glacier Point, though my recollection is that sometimes they'll open up those roads earlier if the conditions warrant. (This year the snow level has been really low, so if things stay that way, it's possible the roads could open up sooner.)

Your post said you would like to hit Glacier Point, so you'll need to keep an eye on that road condition. Check the park website for details. In general, though, you'll probably need to visit the park sometime during the period from June to October in order to get out to Glacier Point.

[scout3dave]

Originally Posted by CalHorn

That's the same route I took -- figured it would be better to do the waterless, treeless Kaibab in the morning before things got too hot. Think it was the right call. Would have been a pain heading up the Kaibab in the hot afternoon sun. At least on the Bright Angel heading back up there was a kind of oasis area about halfway up or so.

I vaguely remember the trail on the bottom between the ranch and the start of the Bright Angel trail. I just didn't remember it being that long. Bottom line was that I was definitely moving slow the last mile or so before getting back up to the rim.

The thing that kills you about GC is you hike down first, then climb out. We didn't go all the way but hiked from the North Rim down to Roaring Springs about 4.7 miles and 3,000 feet down. That was tough, we didn't have good shoes for it. We are talking about doing a Rim to Rim this coming October with some friends. We'll see!

[CalHorn]

Originally Posted by scout3dave

The thing that kills you about GC is you hike down first, then climb out. We didn't go all the way but hiked from the North Rim down to Roaring Springs about 4.7 miles and 3,000 feet down. That was tough, we didn't have good shoes for it. We are talking about doing a Rim to Rim this coming October with some friends. We'll see!

Rim to rim = a long slog with a lot of elevation gain/loss. I hope you are in good shape, have good boots, and that you drink a lot of fluids. If you hike north to south, I would take the Bright Angel trail from the bottom up to the South Rim. You don't want to be slogging up the Kaibab Trail up to the south rim and run out of water, because there is no water on that trail.

If you end up doing it, let us know how it went. That's one hike that I've thought of doing but have never attempted.

[JG]

Also, for a Rim to Rim, you pretty much have to spend the night at Phantom Ranch, in the bottom of the canyon...and you need to try to get reservations NOW if you want to stay there in October. The place fills up and stays full, and camping reservations nearby aren't much easier to get.

It is more than 20 miles total rim to rim. REALLY tough for a single day.

[scout3dave]

We were going to try and stay down at the bottom the last time but couldn't get reservations at PR or the campsites. You can try and pick up reservations from cancellations but that is iffy. If we do it we will do it in a day. North to South is about 2,000 feet less in elevation gain and with trail running shoes it is alot less wear and tear. Last time we had Vasque hiking boots and they were miserable to climb in.

Our running coach almost completed a R2R2R in a day but had to turn back about a mile from the North rim so he could get back to the South rim within his time schedule. That I would not try! He is 60+ has a bad heart and routinely qualifies for Boston.

[AugustaHorn]

One two different occasions as a teenager I hiked from Bright Angel Lodge to Plateau Point and back in one day. I was in pretty good shape, but was still zapped at day's end. To go from rim to rim is a loooong TWO day hike for anyone.

[Procyon]

It is a bit harder to get to, but Yosemite in winter is very different and rewarding. It helps to have a good 4-wheel drive vehicle. Here is a summer picture:






And (almost) the same shot in winter:




And you will see scenes like this in the valley:

[Procyon]

If the road to Glacier Point is open, you should also stop along the way at Washburn point. In the spring, the waterfalls are easier to see from there. Half dome is almost exactly edge-on from this view. The waterfalls in the picture are Vernal Falls in the lower right, and slightly higher and to the right is Nevada Falls. Both are part of the Merced River which flows through the valley.








Compare that with the view from Glacier Point, which is a few miles further along the road. In this view, only Nevada Falls is visible. Half Dome is, however, at a better angle.

[CalHorn]

Nice shots, Procyon!

[JG]

Rim to river to rim AND BACK???!!

Oh my God.

[editionshield]

Great stuff, Procyon. We thought about doing the modest little hike at Taft Point but ultimately had run out of time that day. Really good to know about the difference in views there, though, for a future visit. Your photos illustrate the subtle differences quite vividly.